Atlantic salmon is one of the most popular fish for consumption. However, its production is highly problematic for other animals and the environment. As Douglas Frantz and Catherine Collins point out in Salmon Wars, around 70% of the salmon consumed worldwide comes from aquaculture. Millions of animals live in cramped conditions in huge marine facilities. Pathogens and parasites such as salmon lice spread quickly here and are often combated with synthetic, sometimes illegal, chemicals that cause even more damage to the marine ecosystem. Escaped farmed fish also threaten wild stocks which are already endangered.

Although aquaculture is considered a sustainable alternative to wild fishing, the industry often conceals the actual origin of the fish. The use of fishmeal and fish oil – products that themselves come from wild catches, thereby furthering overfishing – is also often concealed. 

The book also explains that animal welfare issues are prevalent in hatcheries. The high mortality rate clearly shows that fish, as sentient animals, suffer under these conditions.

Land-based recirculation systems (RAS) are currently being discussed as an alternative to aquaculture and hatcheries. Although these enable better water quality, they ultimately remain a form of intensive animal husbandry and do not solve problems such as restricted migration behaviour or costly wastewater treatment. 

Animal welfare organisations therefore see cell-cultured ‘lab fish’ as a potentially animal-friendly and more environmentally friendly solution. The start-up ‘Wildtype’, for example, is developing sushi salmon based on cell cultures. Plant-based alternatives such as carrot ‘Lax’ also offer a completely animal-free option.

Salmon Wars – The Dark Underbelly of Our Favourite Fish is available in English in shops or can be viewed in the TIR library by appointment. New titles are presented in the TIR Library newsletter (link).